01 / ABOUT THE PLACE
About this place
A generous layer of pork back fat blankets the bowl, while the robust aroma of niboshi—dried sardines—rises from the soup. Seabura Chuka Soba to Gyoza Fukuho in Koenji serves back-fat shoyu ramen in the style of Tsubame-Sanjo, Niigata. A rich soy-based seasoning meets the depth of niboshi broth and the sweetness of back fat. Despite its hearty appearance, the soup is well balanced with salt. Hand-揉ned flat, thick noodles have a satisfyingly springy bite and catch the flavour of the broth. Crisp chopped onion and a light citrus, yuzu-like fragrance freshen the finish, making each mouthful easy to enjoy to the last.
Alongside the classic chuka soba, the rock-seaweed version is a popular choice. As the seaweed covering the bowl absorbs the hot, back-fat-rich soup, its briny flavour mingles with the niboshi broth and adds another layer of depth. Add extra onion or rock seaweed to bring out further contrasts in texture and aroma.
There are plenty of sides to have with the noodles. The gyoza, also named in the restaurant’s identity, are generously sized and make a hearty pairing with ramen. Nori chameshi—rice served with seaweed—can be finished by pouring the remaining soup over it, bringing the savoury flavours of back fat and niboshi into the final bites. Other options include soupless mixed noodles, spicy soba and mapo soba. The restaurant stays open until midnight, making it a convenient choice for a late meal.
